This has been an important year for “GMT” watches, which is an acronym for Greenwich Mean Time, based on the mean solar time at the Royal Observatory in Greenwich, London that sits on the prime meridian (used for calculating longitude) and is widely used as a reference time for all the different time zones around the world.

In 1955 Rolex launched the first GMT watch, designed specifically for intercontinental commercial pilots at the now defunct airline Pan Am. The watch, with the ability to display two time zones simultaneously, one via a traditional 12-hour hand and the other via a 24-hour hand, went on to become a legendary professional timepiece, and now many decades later, Rolex GMT-Master II replica watch is the benchmark by which all other GMT watches are measured.

Basically, with the current model, you set the red GMT 24-hour hand to your home time, which is also linked to the minutes, and then you can separately set the standard 12-hour hand, without it affecting the reference time. The local time is linked to the date. So if you like you can leave both hour hands set to your home time, and when you land at your destination, you can quickly set the standard 12-hour hand to the local time, in one-hour jumps , without affecting the accuracy minutes and seconds of the reference time.

The Rolex GMT Master II “Pepsi” (Ref. 126710 BLRO) is the watch that serious Rolex collectors and enthusiasts alike want right now. Itâ€s currently available at authorized Rolex dealers, although thereâ€s already a huge waiting list, and so naturally the demand has caused the price some wealthy buyers are willing to pay to reportedly double. Whether the demand is so high, or the supply is just restrained, is a good question thatâ€s hard to answer. Nevertheless, this is hottest GMT watch of the year. Although Rolexâ€s more affordable brand, Tudor, might have something to say about that, considering they too launched a new GMT watch with a Pepsi bezel and an in-house movement this year, for less than half the price.

The Rolex modus operandi is that they never use the same dial for both the steel and gold version, so theyâ€ve – somewhat quietly – changed the white gold GMT-Master II dial to blue to differentiate the two. Plus, the white gold is only available with the Oyster bracelet and the Jubilee bracelet is now exclusive to the steel model. And no, you cannot opt for an Oyster bracelet on the steel GMT-Master II anymore.

There is one more detail that the white gold Ref. 116719 BLRO GMT-Master II does not share in common with the new steel GMT (Ref. 126710 BLRO), and itâ€s a big one: the white gold version still uses the now last generation caliber 3186 whereas the steel model use the all-new caliber 3285.With the new GMT-Master II 126710 Rolex has subtly redesigned the 40 mm diameter case so as to create better ergonomics, and while I didnâ€t compare the new and old designs side-by-side, it does seem to be more comfortable on the wrist. Thatâ€s also due in part to the lighter weight and unique fit of the Jubilee bracelet. Together, those two design elements give the watch a slightly smaller, almost vintage feel.

As for the new movement, caliber 3285, it of course still features a robust Rolex design, including a traversing balance bridge, but now with a more premium finish, which is much needed in my opinion for a watch nearing the $10K price point. Furthermore, the power reserve has been increased by 46% (from 48 to 70-hours), something more and more brands are doing and that is an important improvement thatâ€s difficult to argue with whether weâ€re talking cars, phones, or watches, all the same. Rolex got to this by increasing the size of the barrel, as well as improving the regulation system such as with the implementation of the Chronergy escapement. This movement, is the subject of 10 patents, by the way.

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It was easily one of the two most talked about new watches at Baselworld 2018. Finally, there is once again a Pepsi-bezel Rolex GMT-Master replica watch in steel. Here it was at long last: the Pepsi GMT in its purest form, in steel, as God and Hans Wilsdorf intended. The degree to which the watch evoked emotion among Rolex enthusiasts is understandable – the distinctive red and blue bezel has been the signature element of the GMT-Master ever since the release of the very first model, reference 6542, in 1955, although it’s not clear who was the first to call it a “Pepsi” bezel. It’s entirely possible, though, that someone made the connection in 1955; the Pepsi logo has gone through many changes since the soda was introduced as “Brad’s Drink” in 1893 but it’s incorporated red, white, and blue since 1950.

Now, there is nothing wrong with white gold, but of course a lot of folks feel that precious metal Rolex watches are a bit of a sideshow to Rolex watches as durable, accurate, and reliable technical watches, and a steel Pepsi GMT-Master II has been sorely missed. The new model is everything everyone’s been wishing for in a Pepsi GMT-Master, but of course, with some updates from the last aluminum-bezel version – some obvious, and some less immediately obvious.

We looked at the major differences between the last steel Pepsi and the new white gold model back in 2015, but it’s worth reviewing one more time in the context of the new steel model, especially as there are technical updates to the new steel Pepsi over the white gold version. First of all, of course the new model has the Cerachrom Pepsi bezel that debuted on the white gold model in 2014, which offers quite a bit technically vs. the aluminum bezel – it’s for all intents and purposes scratchproof, and the colors won’t fade over time.

It’s wider than the old bezel and doesn’t have its mid-20th century anachronistic charm – the anodized aluminum bezel, after all, has been around since 1959 – but as with most of the changes Rolex makes to existing models, it’s unquestionably a better choice from a technical materials standpoint.

However, even bigger news is that the new steel Pepsi uses the latest version of the GMT movement: caliber 3285, which replaces the cal. 3186 used in the last aluminum bezel version. The caliber 3285 uses the combination of the Chronergy escapement and Parachrom balance spring which was first rolled out in the Day-Date in 2015.

Of course, the other big difference between the new steel GMT-Master II and previous models – and one which will be for owners far more noticeable than the movement – is the Jubilee bracelet..

The Jubilee bracelet on a Pepsi-bezel GMT is the single most divisive element of the watch. Like all modern Rolex bracelets, it’s a beautifully engineered piece of gear, with best-in-class fit and finish. However, it’s also a bit more ornamental than an Oyster bracelet, and it would seem that the relative sobriety of the GMT-Master II ought to call for the more austere look of the Oyster. It’s not really a comfort issue – the Jubilee bracelet should theoretically offer better conformance to the shape of the wrist, thanks to the smaller links but as anyone who’s worn a modern Oyster bracelet will tell you, they take a back seat to no one in terms of ease of adjustment and general wearability. So why offer the steel Pepsi GMT II on a Jubilee bracelet only – and moreover, one that cannot be swapped out for an Oyster bracelet?

Now naturally people buy vintage Rolex for different reasons than modern and there is a certain depth of feeling, to put it mildly, about the scarcity of some modern Rolex watches. There is however a certain depth of feeling, increasingly, about the growing price/value ratio for vintage Rolex watches and if you want something that just works and looks good doing it, you can one-and-done more easily with modern Rolex than with an awful lot of other brands.

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Rolex GMT-Master II ‘Root Beer†In Rolesor & Everose Gold

At BaselWorld 2018 Rolex introduced the Rolex GMT-Master II ‘Root Beer’ in Rolesor two-tone and in all Everose gold. This brings back the brown-theme to the GMT-Master II collection, this time paired with Rolex’s proprietary 18kt rose gold alloy that actually matches it amazingly well, as well as a new-generation movement. There is a considerable difference between the Rolesor and the all-gold versions both in terms of looks, style, and price.https://www.watchesyoga.com

Specifications

Brand: Rolex
Model: GMT-Master II Root Beer 126711CHNR (Rolesor) and 126715CHNR (all Everose gold)
Dimensions: 40mm
Lug Width: 20mm
Case Material: Rolesor two-tone combination of Everose gold and Oystersteel, or solid Everose gold
Crystal/Lens: Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, Cyclops lens over the date
Movement: 3285 Manufacture Rolex
Frequency: 4Hz
Power Reserve: 70 hours
Strap/Bracelet: Oyster bracelet with Oysterlock safety clasp and Easylink 5mm comfort extension
Price & Availability: 13,400 CHF for Rolesor and 35,000 CHF for the all-Everose gold model

Analysis

While there certainly are fans of the vintage Rolex GMT-Master “Root Beer” replica watch around, these new models I believe will require interested Rolex customers seeing them hands-on in the boutiques. We saw them live already (hands-on coming up soon) and they do look different than in images. As with all rose gold watches (Rolex’s Everose models included) the way the red-pink colored gold works with one’s skin will be a defining factor for how the watch actually looks and wears. The new generation movement is a welcome development, now with a 70-hour power reserve and a host of 10 patented solutions. Details to come in the hands-on article very soon.

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